A Nod To The Past: Rolex’s New Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar - Fratello Watches

Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase disc with its meteorite representations of the full and new moons. Look closer, however, and you’ll discover that the more interesting story lies underneath the dial.

Rolex has developed a new movement, caliber 7190, with an annual calendar mechanism that distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months and advances the day, date, and month simultaneously at midnight. This is a distinctly different proposition from the brand’s more familiar sports watches, and it puts Rolex’s recent movement development firmly in the spotlight. Let’s take a closer look.

Rolex has introduced the Perpetual Padellone, a new annual calendar that draws its name and general design language from one of the company’s vintage references. The inspiration is reference 8171, produced from the late 1940s into the early 1950s and known among collectors as the “Padellone.” That watch was notable for its relatively large case and calendar display, including the day, date, month, and moonphase.

The new model revisits that combination of calendar functions in a considerably more technically elaborate form. Rather than reproducing the vintage watch, Rolex has used its visual characteristics as a starting point for a modern model in the Perpetual collection. The 39mm case, domed and fluted bezel, and restrained dial layout recall the proportions and aesthetic of the original reference, while the movement introduces a new annual calendar mechanism and a fully visible moonphase display.

Rolex 1908 with the Settimo bracelet

The Padellone is also only the second watch to join Rolex’s Perpetual collection, which began with the Perpetual 1908 in 2023. Like the 1908, the new model particularly emphasizes the movement, which is visible through a transparent case back.

The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is available in 18K Everose gold or 950 platinum. Its 39mm case has curved lines and a bezel with a domed upper section and a finely fluted lower one. Rolex uses a combination of surface treatments on the dial, with a frosted finish in the center and a satin finish around the perimeter.

There are three configurations. The first combines an 18K Everose gold case with an intense white dial and a Settimo bracelet in matching gold.

The Settimo bracelet consists of rows of seven small, slightly curved links and was first introduced on the Perpetual 1908 in 2025.

The second version uses a 950 platinum case with an ice-blue dial and a matte black alligator leather strap. The third returns to Everose gold and the intense white dial, but pairs the watch with a brown alligator leather strap.

The heart of the watch is the new caliber 7190, an automatic movement developed and manufactured by Rolex. It operates at 5 Hz and is visible through the sapphire crystal in the case back. Its architecture incorporates a Syloxi silicon hairspring, a ceramic balance staff, and the Dynapulse escapement. Rolex states that the movement is covered by 30 patent applications, with two specifically for the Padellone.

The main complication is a complete annual calendar with a moonphase display. The day and month are displayed in apertures at 12 o’clock, while a blue hand points to the date around the outer section of the dial. Meanwhile, a blue enamel disc displays the lunar phases, rotating once every 29.53 days. Full and new moons are represented by meteorite elements, with the new moon bearing a dark blue PVD treatment. Both carry faces, referring to the celestial display of the original Padellone.

Close-up of the calendar mechanism inside caliber 7190

The calendar uses Rolex’s patented Haplos system to distinguish between 30- and 31-day months. It leaves only one manual correction each year, on March 1st. The day, date, and month also change simultaneously at midnight rather than sequentially. Four correctors in the case allow the calendar and moonphase indications to be adjusted independently.

The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is a very welcome surprise! The 1908 with the Settimo bracelet was a favorite among the Fratello team. With this new watch, however, I think we can all agree that our preference has shifted to the Perpetual Padellone. Almost 10 years ago, we witnessed the introduction of the Cellini Moonphase. We followed it with great interest, wondering whether it would ever return to the 1908. Rolex made it even more interesting by using its latest Dynapulse movement. The high-frequency Dynapulse movement debuted last year in the new Land-Dweller collection and is very similar in construction to what we see here today.

What’s my preferred configuration? It’s the Everose gold version with the Settimo bracelet, of course. Prices start at CHF 52,500 for the Rolex Everose gold Perpetual Padellone on a leather strap (reference 53505-0002). The platinum version on leather (reference 53506-0002) retails for CHF 59,000. And finally, the Everose gold version with the Settimo bracelet (53505-0003) costs CHF 64,800.

For more information, visit the official Rolex website.