First Look: Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection - Monochrome Watches
It’s solid steel with engravings, without a see-through back. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and the back is solid steel. Both will be part of the permanent collection.
A name with historical importance at Seiko, the Speedtimer refers to early wrist chronographs created by the brand back in 1969. Alongside Zenith and the Heuer/Hamilton/Breiling venture, Seiko was among the first three brands to launch an automatic chronograph movement with its calibre 6139 inside a watch named the Speedtimer. In recent years, this name has been used for several chronograph models, but also recent time-and-date watches, enlarging the collection to a motorsport-inspired range. In the frame of Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations, the brand is releasing 4 new watches in its Speedtimer range, with the references HBD001, HBD002, HBC003 and HBC004.
The first duo of new models are mechanical chronographs, sharing their architecture with the SRQ047 and SRQ049 released in 2023, with a more retro-styled design inspired by early-1970s Speedtimer chronographs. Compared to previous editions of the Speedtimer, such as these references, Seiko has entirely reshaped the collection with a far more appealing design and a hard-coated steel case that measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness. Finished with brushed and polished surfaces, the case has an almost helmet-like centre section, an ode to 1970s models. The rest of the case is classic, with a sapphire crystal on top, a large crown and a caseback that, for once, keeps things hidden. It’s solid steel with engravings, without a see-through back. The 100m water-resistance is also pleasant for a chronograph.
New for 2026 are the dials, first by adding vertical engraved lines to the base of the dial. The reference HBD001 relies on a sky blue background with several contrasting elements. The tachymeter scale and the sub-dials at 6 and 9 o’clock are done in black, making all chronograph indications separated from the rest of the dial. The small seconds counter, at 3 o’clock, has a lighter tone to blend better with the rest of the dial, and a white seconds scale gives the finishing touch. The reference HBD002 has a slightly more elegant colour scheme, but still the same idea of contrast between indications. The base has a nice warm silver tone while the chronograph counters are done in sky blue. This edition comes worn on a grey leather strap, while the HBD001 is equipped with a hard-coated steel bracelet.
Inside both is the calibre 8R48, a fine movement equipped with a vertical clutch and column wheel, ensuring a smooth actuation of the function and a precise start of the seconds hand. This automatic engine beats at a 4Hz frequency, with an escapement made lighter and stronger thanks to the use of MEMS technology.
Both released as part of the permanent collection, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph HBD001 will be priced at EUR 2,780. The leather-equipped HBD002 will be priced at EUR 2,680.
Quick specs: 42mm x 14.6mm steel case with super-hard coating – sapphire crystal, solid steel back, 100m water-resistant – Calibre 8R48 – in-house – automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch systems – 34 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 45h power reserve – steel bracelet (HBD001) or leather strap (HBD002)
Next to the sporty, bold chronographs, the Speedtimer collection also benefits from two new time-and-date references. First released in mid-2025 as part of the Datsun-themed collection, the non-chronograph Prospex Speedtimer joined the regular collection just after with the references SPB513 and SPB515. Even though not capable of measuring elapsed times, the motorsport inspiration remains clear, and the watches have several distinct elements, such as an internal rotating bezel, making them quite cool everyday sports watches. The case also comes with near-perfect proportions – 39.5mm diameter x 12.0mm thickness – and a solid 200m water-resistance. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and the back is solid steel.
New for 2026, the brand adds a leather strap variant to the collection, the reference HBC004, which shares the same colour scheme as the bracelet SPB515, with its dark grey (almost black) dial and orange accents on the inner flange. The other reference, the HBC003, inaugurates a light blue vertically brushed dial, still with orange accents, but this time with a stainless steel bracelet.
Inside the case is the reliable Calibre 6R55, a modern automatic movement offering 72 hours of power reserve. Running at 21,600 vibrations/hour with a magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, it’s robust enough for daily life and weekend drives. Both will be part of the permanent collection. The HBC003 retails for EUR 1,030 and the HBC004 for EUR 1,000.
Quick specs: 39.5mm x 12mm steel case – inner rotating bezel – sapphire crystal, solid steel back, 200m water-resistant – Calibre 6R55, in-house – automatic – 21,600vph – 24 jewels – 72h power reserve – steel bracelet (HBC003) or embossed leather strap (HBC004)
For more details, please visit seikowatches.com.