Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References - Fratello Watches

The Seiko Speedtimer has relatively quickly grown into a full collection of watches inspired by Seiko’s first automatic chronographs from the late ’60s and early ’70s. What began as a line of chronographs in 2021 has expanded into a broader collection of sports watches. Last year, Seiko introduced a series of three-handers that took the collection into new territory. Today, Seiko is releasing two new mechanical Speedtimer chronographs (HBD001 and HBD002) and two time-only Speedtimers (HBC003 and HBC004). These four models are regular additions to the catalog, and three come with nice, light-colored dials for a new Speedtimer aesthetic.

Thinking about the Speedtimer, my mind immediately wanders off to the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ035. It was one of the two models that started the current Speedtimer collection in 2021. I still love that watch and its crisp white dial. Five years on, Seiko has given the Speedtimer name to several different models. From mechanical chronographs to time-and-date three-handers to solar-powered chronographs, it has become a varied collection of watches. Let’s look at the latest introductions that Seiko unveiled today. They present lighter dial colors that bring a different aesthetic to their base designs.

Let’s kick things off with the two new Speedtimer Mechanical Chronographs. Both the HBD001 and the HBD002 have a 42 × 49.5 × 14.6mm stainless steel case. This is the same case we have seen used for the SRQ051 and SRQ053, which I reviewed in 2024. The cases received a super-hard coating and feature a brushed finish with a polished bezel and bevels.

On the right side, you will find the crown and the classic pump-style pushers that control Seiko’s in-house 8R48 caliber. This 34-jewel chronograph caliber runs at 28,800 vph and offers a 45-hour power reserve.

The HBD001 comes with a light blue dial encircled by a white minute track. You will also find a white tachymeter scale on the black rehaut.

The chronograph’s 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock are both executed in black with pale blue markings. The running seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock is a dark grayish blue with pale blue markings. The Seiko designers obviously made this distinction to emphasize the difference between the regular timekeeping and the chronograph functions.

Additionally, the small hands for the chronograph counters feature bright blue tips that match the tip of the central chronograph hand. The small running seconds hand has a pale blue tip to echo the textured dial. A nice touch is the black applied Seiko logo. It matches the applied hour markers, which also contain pale blue lume accents at the end. Tucked away between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers is the date window. It has a white disc with black numerals, helping it blend in nicely.

Hovering over the dial are the lume-filled hour and minute hands, each with a thin black stripe. Lastly, the black central chronograph hand has a bright blue tip to finish the look.

At first glance, you might think this is a fairly straightforward light blue dial with contrasting sub-dials. As you can see, though, it is tremendously detailed. The HBD001 comes fitted with a stainless steel nine-row bracelet with a push-button clasp and half links. It is the same bracelet used for previous releases. It completes the watch nicely and is very comfortable on the wrist.

The HBD002 follows the same three-register layout but uses different colors. The base is a light gray dial with the same vertical-line pattern as the HBD001. The minute track is white, and the tachymeter scale on the rehaut follows the dial’s gray tint.

Contrasting the lighter dial are two light blue chronograph counters at 6 and 9 o’clock and a slightly darker gray running-seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock. The small hands for the chronograph counters are all black, while the small running-seconds hand is silver with a black tip. This dial also features a black applied Seiko logo and hour markers with luminous ends.

Turning above the dial are the hour and minute hands, both executed in black with a light blue pinstripe and treated with lume. The black chronograph hand follows that color combination with a light blue tip. The HBD0002 comes equipped with a light gray leather strap. I’m not a huge fan of this, though. I would prefer this light-colored chronograph on the bracelet or perhaps a different strap to make it look even better.

On the wrist, these watches will certainly let you know they are there. They are substantial in size and proportions, but I can pull both of them off just fine on my 18.5cm wrist. As mentioned, I prefer the look of the watch on the bracelet. That said, I like both dials equally. The colorways complement each other well, and I kept going back and forth between the two. In the end, both present a very different look from the previous introductions, and people will undoubtedly appreciate that.

Importantly, the watches also feel very solid, and the chronograph is smooth and nice to operate. The pushers start, stop, and reset with defined clicks. This is exactly the feeling I would expect from a more expensive Seiko chronograph series, which is reassuring. The Seiko Prospex HBD001 is available immediately and will cost €2,780. The HBD002 also goes on sale today and is slightly cheaper at €2,680. These watches are great additions to the expanding catalog.

The second duo adds new colors to the time-only Speedtimer Mechanical series. In the summer of 2025, Seiko dropped five new watches, including three Speedtimer three-handers. One of them was part of a trio of watches commemorating the Datsun 240Z, which was first introduced in 1969, just like Seiko’s first automatic chronograph. However, the two regular models stood out to me. They introduced a model series that stretched the Speedtimer into new, interesting territory.

With today’s introductions, Seiko also adds a bit of color to the lineup alongside the existing silvery-white-dial and black-dial models. The new HBC003 introduces a light blue dial, and the HBC004 has a brushed gray dial. Both have a 39.5 × 44.5 × 12mm case with a 200m water resistance rating. The crown at 3 o’clock is for adjusting the time and date, while the one at 4 o’clock lets you operate the internal countdown bezel.

Hiding behind the all-steel case back of both models, you will find the Seiko 6R55. This automatic movement ticks at 21,600 vph, has 24 jewels, and delivers a 72-hour power reserve

The HBC003 has a light blue dial with a vertically brushed finish, a silver minute track, and black applied indexes. The internal countdown bezel is black with light blue numerals and markings. Lastly, the date is located between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. As you can see, the overall aesthetic echoes the HBD001.

But some details are different. An example is the handset. The black hour and minute hands are filled with lume and feature a blue pinstripe. The black seconds hand has an orange tip that corresponds to the orange marking on the rotatable bezel, indicating the last 15 minutes of the countdown. Completing the watch is a super-comfortable retro stainless steel bracelet. It matches the watch’s style perfectly and ensures a great fit.

The second model is the HBC004, which features a brushed gray dial. Overall, this is the same watch as the HBC003, with the main difference being that the center of the dial is a different color. Some details are different, though. Because of the darker dial color, the Seiko designers used silver-colored hands and indexes. Additionally, the date disc matches the dial color and has white printing.

As a result, the HDC004 looks slightly different, but it definitely has the same feel, with a sporty overall aesthetic and light blue and orange details. Unlike its counterpart, the HDC004 does not come on a stainless steel bracelet but on a black nylon strap with a leather lining and contrasting stitching. It nicely emphasizes the racing feel of these watches.

When Seiko unveiled the three-hand Speedtimers last year, I didn’t have a chance to try them out. So this was my first hands-on experience with them, and I was super impressed. I am not big on typical racing-style watches. While I greatly appreciate their style and legacy, I generally favor a quieter aesthetic. But that doesn’t mean they don’t leave a lasting impression when I put them on my wrist. That’s exactly what these watches did.

Generally, I am also not the biggest fan of chronographs turned into three-handers because it often feels like something is missing. It’s a very personal observation, of course, but that’s how my mind works. This time, though, it felt different. The charming HDC003 and HDC004 can stand on their own.

I quickly found out that I prefer the Speedtimer Mechanical on the bracelet. It makes the watch a sturdy and sporty daily wearer that balances retro charm with modern-day design cues very well. It left me nothing short of impressed. While I initially thought I would prefer the chronographs, that quickly changed when I wore both of these new introductions that fans will undoubtedly love.

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer HDC003 and HDC004 are regular additions to the collection, just like the chronograph. The HDC003 is available for €1,030 on the bracelet, and the HDC004 costs €1,000 on the leather strap. As mentioned, these watches truly surprised me in the best way possible.

While I already knew the chronographs are impressive, these add to the overall feeling that the Speedtimer line offers something special within the Seiko collection. Three of these four new references bring a fresh, light-colored aesthetic while staying firmly rooted in the brand’s rich sports and racing history. Seiko has done this consistently well over time, and it contributes to the appeal of the brand’s timepieces. These four are right at home in the Speedmaster series, which is worth a great compliment.

What do you think of the new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer releases? Let us know in the comments section below!